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Understanding Silk and Zari

In South Indian handloom sarees, silk type describes the yarn (pure mulberry silk being the finest and heaviest), while zari describes the metallic thread woven into borders and motifs. Pure zari costs more than tested or imitation zari, and zari density is a major driver of both price and saree weight.

Silk Types You Will See

Pure mulberry silk is the finest and heaviest, with the richest fall. Dharmavaram handloom silk is the traditional silk used across our core range. Soft silk has a softer yarn treatment, lighter and easier to drape. Semi Kanchipattu is a lighter silk and zari blend.

What Zari Actually Is

Zari is the metallic thread woven into the border, pallu and motifs. Traditional pure zari uses a silk core wrapped in fine silver thread with a gold finish. Tested and imitation zari use less precious materials and cost considerably less – which is why two similar-looking sarees can differ sharply in price.

Zari Density and Weight

More zari means more weight. This is why bridal sarees run heavier than soft silks – the extra grams are largely in the pallu and border.

Meenakari Work

Meenakari borrows its name from an enamelling technique used in Indian jewellery. In weaving it describes multicoloured thread worked into gold zari motifs. See our Meena Kari collection.


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